THEY say that you can tell someone who has just returned from polar lands by
the faraway look in their eyes. Maybe it’s just snow blindness. Or maybe it’s
that the farther you get from civilisation, the more bizarre the rules of
behaviour become.
I’ve just been camping in Alaska’s Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. You’d
think they wouldn’t need to worry about etiquette there. The refuge is the size
of Wales, has a permanent population of some 2000 and gets 1500 visitors a year.
Plenty of room for everyone to do their thing.
Not so fast, said my guide Pam.…
