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THIS fascinating and disturbing book is as much about our attitudes towards fish as it is about the fish themselves. Paul Greenberg brilliantly captures the contradictory nature of our relationship with fish, asking whether we are “at root rational creatures”. The fact that people manage to argue that “there are still some fish left” would suggest we might not be as rational as we wish we were.

Greenberg is unapologetically passionate, and as the plight of the salmon, sea bass, cod and tuna becomes progressively worse, you feel his anger rise. Should we embrace increased farming? Can we manage wild…

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