SAFFRON may no longer be more expensive than gold, but it still commands a steep price – just as it has for thousands of years. That reflects the labour needed to make it: you must winnow and dry out many crocus flowers to make just a pinch of spice.
Now, a Swiss company is planning to use genetically modified yeast to produce the key components of saffron, as well as the vanillin extract found in vanilla – the world’s second most expensive spice. Other firms are using the same technique to make medicinal compounds, such as the antimalarial drug artemisinin (see “Pharma to fork: How we’ll swallow synthetic biology“).
This all sounds like a significant advance. But the introduction of synthetic biology into food production has given rise to concerns similar to those raised over genetically modified crops: notably, that it will put poor farmers out of business.
Perhaps acceptance lies in marketing “synth-bio” not as a replacement for traditional farming products, but as a lower-cost alternative, akin to the relationship between 9-carat and 24-carat gold. Gourmands will probably always favour the flavour of traditional spices, but others may settle for a cheaper hit. The crocus and the yeast may be able to co-exist yet.
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This article appeared in print under the headline “Will the price be right?”
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